By Jackie Smith
Special to The Seattle Times

— Conversations and laughter filled the little pub tucked away in the town’s original City Hall and fire station as we squeezed into the after-work crowd at this Historic District hot spot. Grabbing two plastic chairs from a corner stack, we settled in for a cold one and conversation at Bob’s Keg and Cork on a recent summer evening.

Bob Hargreaves opened his popular pub and casual dining spot (27 N. Front St., 509-573-3691) a decade ago, back when there wasn’t much going on in the old town, a time when there wasn’t much going on anywhere in downtown Yakima.

“It was dead,” Hargreaves says. “But there has been a dramatic change in the last three to five years. There are people on the sidewalks again. Even locals are noticing. It’s been a long time since we’ve seen people on the sidewalks.”

We were in my hometown for a shot of solar-powered vitamin D, using it as a base for weekend explorations in Central Washington’s wine country, an area now boasting more than 60 wineries scattered throughout the Lower Yakima Valley.

What we hadn’t expected was the lure of Yakima’s revitalized downtown. With new eateries, wine-tasting rooms, entertainment venues and hotels, a weekend visit wasn’t enough time to experience it all.

Not so many years ago, the sidewalks were empty, as were many of the storefronts. Even portions of the retail hub, the Yakima Mall, were boarded up for a time after the last of the retailers headed for new digs in the suburbs.

“Operation Downtown Renaissance,” an intense effort by civic and business leaders, has brought new life to the area stretching west from Interstate 82 through the heart of town to its Historic District.

Front Street

Historic District

A recently completed face-lift gave the oldest part of town a new “old” look. Cast-iron lampposts line spacious sidewalks, and Front Street is again paved with bricks, much as it was when first paved in 1907.

For 25 years, the Greystone Restaurant, in the 1899 Lund Building at 5 N. Front St. (509-248-9801, www.greystonedining.com), has been the area’s fine-dining cornerstone. Now, with five other eateries open, the selection of culinary offerings in this compact time-capsule district has expanded to include French cuisine, Northwest fare and pub grub. A favorite stop, The Depot Restaurant & Lounge at 32 N. Front St. (509-949-4233, www.depotrestaurantandlounge.com), opened six years ago in the former domed passenger waiting room and adjacent baggage room of the century-old train station. It’s an expansive, tranquil setting disturbed only by the occasional passing freight train. (Passenger service ended decades ago.)

The sidewalk is a maze of shrub-filled pots and overflowing greenery in front of the Garden Girl, 25 N. Front St. (509-452-2612), one of several boutiques that have recently sprouted in Yakima’s first Opera House. Wine aficionados are drawn to the Cascade Wine Store, 26 N. First St. (509-972-2811, www.cwcwine.com), to sample retail selections at the small tasting bar, while java and gelato lovers head next door to the North Town Coffeehouse, 28 N. First St. (509-895-7600, www.northtowncoffee.com), which opened in July.

There’s free on-street parking in the area as well as in several lots accessed from Front or First streets. Accessible walkways lead from all lots.

Downtown

Walking along Yakima Avenue, the town’s main east/west drag, is one of the best ways to see all that’s new. Those once-empty sidewalks are being enlarged to accommodate and encourage pedestrians. They are also serving as patios, with some 15 businesses making the most of the town’s annual 300 days of sunshine by offering outdoor dining and/or drinking. One of the newest and prettiest patios is walled with lush flowering baskets and enormous planted pots at Santiago’s Gourmet Mexican Restaurant, 111 E. Yakima Ave. (509-453-1644, www.santiagos.org), where they’ve been serving south-of-the-border fare since 1986.

The sidewalk tables under the vintage neon sign — a hunter with his rifle aimed skyward — at the Yakima Sports Center Restaurant and Lounge, 214 E. Yakima Ave. (509-453-4647, www.yakimasportscenter.com), are the first indicator of change at this old landmark, once a smoke-filled diner and card room. While the sign and name nod to the past, in 2006 new owners opened a brighter, livelier restaurant and lounge. Its food and beverage menu packs them in, along with late-night live music.

It’s worth a jog off Yakima Avenue to visit Essencia Artisan Bakery and Chocolaterie, 4 N. Third St. (509-575-5570, www.essenciabakery.com), where it’s futile to resist the baked goods and chocolate creations.

Masset Winery Downtown Cellars, 312 E. Yakima Ave. (509-248-5251, www.massetwinery.com), is among five recently opened tasting rooms within a five-block area of downtown. Wine is paired with appetizers, and local artists are showcased in this tasting-room/art gallery that also features live music on weekend evenings.

The sparkling chandelier and vaulted ceilings create an elegant ambience in the lobby of the 2-year-old Hilton Garden Inn, 401 E. Yakima Ave. (509-454-1111, www.yakima.stayhgi.com). The 111-room hotel, in what was once a part of the old mall, is flanked by upscale shops, one selling home décor and the other wine and entertainment items. There’s direct lobby access to Ummelina Spa, 399 E. Yakima Ave. (509-225-4772, www.ummelina.com), a sister to the one in Seattle. From a lengthy list of treatments, I tried a 20-minute foot soak ($20), a curiously refreshing combination of salts and shells, misting and massage — a perfect tootsie treat after exploring the town.

In June, the Ledgestone Hotel, 107 N. Fair Ave. (509-453-3151, www.yakimawahotel.com), opened for both long- and short-term stays. There’s a contemporary feel to the hotel’s sleek lobby. Its 110 suites look like high-end condos, each with separate bedroom, living room, kitchen and eating area. The hotel is near Interstate 82, a bit of a hike from the city center.

Coming soon: A 124-room boutique hotel, with oversize rooms and high-end rates, is scheduled to open in late spring 2009 in the northeast corner of the former mall, near the Hilton Garden Inn. Planning is under way for a 120-room full-service Holiday Inn at East Yakima and Fair avenues.

Entertainment happenings

The Seasons Performance Center, 101 N. Naches Ave. (888-723-7660, www.seasonsmusicfestival.com), transformed a former church into a 400-seat performance center in 2005 and has taken center stage in Yakima’s entertainment scene. Its musical lineup includes jazz, classical and world music performed by local and internationally known musicians.

The interior of the elegant, 90-year-old Capitol Theatre, 19 S. Third St. (509-853-2787, www.capitoltheatre.org), is more visually striking than its exterior. Call to arrange a tour if you can’t make it to a performance.

We hit the downtown’s First Friday celebration, a mishmash of activities that begins about 6 p.m. and varies by business, ranging from live music to product demonstrations, and special menu items at eateries and tasting rooms. It’s relatively new, and activities vary each month.

We’ll soon head back to Yakima. Next time, though, we won’t venture far from downtown.

http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/outdoors/2008170857_nwwyakima111.html

Freelance writer Jackie Smith, a Yakima native who now lives in Kirkland, is a regular contributor to NWWeekend. Contact her: travelnwrite@msn.com.

Mt. Rainier National Park

Mt. Rainier National Park is approximately an hour’s drive northwest of Yakima and is most accessible in the summer months. Some areas, however, may be visited year round. There are activities for the whole family including camping, hiking, wildlife observation, boating and skiing.

Capitol Theatre

The historic Capitol Theatre was built in 1919 and is on the National Register of Historic Sites. It is home to the productions of local organizations such as the Yakima Symphony Orchestra and Community Concerts.

Central Washington State Fair

The Central Washington State Fair runs for 10 days each year in late September/early October. The fairgrounds are spacious and scenic, making it one of the most enjoyable fairs in the state.

Mt. Rainier National Park

Mt. Rainier National Park is approximately an hour’s drive northwest of Yakima and is most accessible in the summer months. Some areas, however, may be visited year round. There are activities for the whole family including camping, hiking, wildlife observation, boating and skiing.

Nile Valley Days

Nile Valley Days is a charming community fair held every July in the mountain community of Cliffdell. Approximately a 45-minute drive from Yakima towards Chinook Pass, this three-day fair features local crafters and artists, and is great fun for the whole family. Related information: visit the Nile Civic Betterment Association Web site.

Recreational rivers

The Naches and Yakima rivers offer excellent opportunities for fishing, rafting and other outdoor sports. The Yakima River is one of the nation’s most popular destinations for fly fishermen.

Sundome

The Yakima Valley Sundome, located on the fairgrounds, hosts many concerts and trade shows year round. Built in 1990, the Sundome is the largest dome of its kind in the world.

Toppenish Murals

The city of Toppenish, a half-hour drive southeast of Yakima, houses one of the Northwest’s leading attractions with more than 34 large outdoor murals depicting the area’s history and culture.

Washington Wine Country

Wineries abound in the Yakima Valley, as do fresh fruits and vegetables. Fruit stands dot the local highways, and for those who are interested, there are plenty of opportunities to self-pick produce at local farms. The Yakima Valley’s outstanding agriculture draws people from all over the Northwest.

Yakama Nation Cultural Center

Also near Toppenish is the Yakama Indian Nation Cultural Center. The museum contains wonderful dioramas and exhibits that tell the story of the Yakama people. There is also a restaurant and gift shop, a library, a theatre and an RV resort. The Yakama Nation Legends Casino is open Sunday through Thursday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Yakima Area Arboretum

The Yakima Area Arboretum is open every day from dawn until dusk, and the Jewett Visitor Center is open to the public Tuesday through Saturday 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. The arboretum harbors more than 2,000 specimens of native and exotic species of woody plants on 46 acres of land adjoining the Yakima River.

Yakima County Stadium

Yakima Stadium, adjacent to the Sundome, is home to the Yakima Bears, a Class ‘A’ Arizona Diamondbacks affiliated baseball team. In addition to baseball games, the stadium hosts concerts and other activities.

Yakima Farmers Market

Yakima is also home to a thriving farmer’s market, which is open every Sunday from May to October. Local produce and hand crafted items are available at the market.

Yakima Greenway

The Greenway, which runs through the arboretum, is another facet of Yakima’s outdoor activities. The Greenway stretches from Selah Gap to Union Gap, and west along the Naches River. It has more than 10 miles of paved pathways which connect parks, river access landings, nature trails, fishing lakes and protected natural areas.

Yakima Valley Museum

The Yakima Valley Museum, located in downtown Yakima, offers historical exhibits on the Yakima Valley’s natural history, American Indian culture, pioneer life, early city life and the development of the Valley’s fruit industry.

To learn more about everything the Yakima Valley has to offer, visit www.everythingyakima.com.

The Yakima Greenway is a continuous 10-mile walking and biking path that overflows with the sounds of walkers chatting, children laughing, playing and exercising, runners preparing for marathons and residents of all ages and levels of fitness out enjoying the fresh air nine to 10 months each year.

Yakima’s residents and visitors enjoy recreation year around, and the great variety of adventures and activities make Yakima hard to resist. When not participating, Yakima residents love to watch! There’s a great pride in our professional sport teams.

Yakima is also home to the Yakima Bears, a minor league baseball team.

Year around, indoors or outdoors, it seems there’s always something to see or do in Yakima, where sports and activities abound.

Whether you prefer hands-on activity or just to sit back and watch, there’s so much to do, see and enjoy in the valley. It’s a full-time activity just trying to fit everything in.

Links of interest

Cascadians – The Cascadians is an outdoor recreation and conservation club located in Yakima, Washington.  Activities include hiking, backpacking, climbing, skiing, bicycling, kayaking, and rafting. Cascadians have been enjoying the trails and peaks of the Pacific Northwest since 1920.

Affiliated with the Warehouse Theatre Company is the Allied Arts Council. Allied Arts of Yakima Valley (established in 1962) is a nonprofit organization dedicated to the coordination and promotion of arts events in the Valley. Allied Arts focuses on developing artistic and academic skills, community enhancement and economic growth through the arts. To get involved, visit the Yakima Allied Arts Web site.

Larson Gallery, located on the Yakima Valley Community College campus, offers free general admittance during gallery hours, Tuesday through Saturday, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. The gallery is home to juried shows and curator-selected shows. The largest juried show is the Central Washington Artists Exposition each fall. Artists from Central Washington are invited to submit various forms of artisan works, and 100 pieces are selected by a regional jury. Throughout the remainder of the year, director Cheryl H. Hahn selects a variety of shows from across the country and around the world. For more information, visit www.larsongallery.org.

There are multiple jazz festivals throughout the year, including art fairs, a weekly farmer’s market, a blues and jazz festival, a hop festival and many more. Every summer Yakima Valley residents and visitors gather together for a three-day Yakima Folklife Festival featuring performers, crafts and of course food at Franklin Park. For more information, visit the Yakima Valley Museum’s folk life Web site.

The Yakima community supports and encourages the arts in all their many forms—music, dance, theatre, symphony, visual arts and comedy—each one creating another layer of sustenance in a busy world. From Broadway shows to local productions, from touring extravaganzas to preschool recitals, the Yakima community loves to be entertained.

Perhaps it’s the four seasons or the nearly 300 days of sun a year that draw nearly 250,000 residents and more than half a million visitors to the Yakima Valley annually. Perhaps it’s the sweet smell of a valley that’s lush with orchards, vineyards and gardens. 

Perhaps it’s the diversity and cultural opportunities that create a heritage rich with multi-generational families and new families sharing community-sponsored events and neighborhood-organized barbecues and holiday parties. Maybe it’s the central location—to Seattle, Spokane or Portland—to the mountains, the ocean, rain forests or the Columbia River. Perhaps it’s that feeling of belonging, even when you’ve just arrived, that inspires thousands of new families to call Yakima home every year.

Click here to read Seattle Business Monthly’s feature on Yakima.

So it was no surprise to us that when The Early Show’s Dave Price toured the country as part of The Great American Adventure Winnebago Tour, he and the CBS morning show team stopped in Yakima where he gushed to viewers nationwide about the agricultural bounty he discovered. At one point, Price even challenged The Early Show anchor Harry Smith to pick any letter of the alphabet and Price would name a fruit or vegetable grown in the Yakima Valley that started with that letter.

Most people think of apples when they speak of the Yakima Valley. The area is home to more than 50 varieties of apples. But few know that the United States produces 24 percent of the world’s hops, and about three-fourths of the U.S. crop comes from the Yakima Valley. And in the past 20 years, Yakima Valley wineries have continued to receive increasing acclaim. The magnificent vineyards of the sun-drenched valley lie in the same latitudes as the great wine-producing regions of France. As a result, Yakima’s hand-crafted award-winning wines have enjoyed an explosion in popularity.

Located at the confluence of the Naches and Yakima Rivers, Yakima serves as the gateway to the Cascade Mountains to the west and the bountiful Yakima Valley to the east. The city of Yakima is the business and commercial hub of Central Washington, serving a populace of about a quarter of a million people. The Yakima Valley boasts of excellent education, culture and, of course, recreation.

Yakima offers so many attractions that you’ll want to plan to stay a while or make multiple trips to see everything. Depending on when you arrive, the city also plays host to a substantial calendar of events throughout the year. For further information about Yakima, please click here.